Saturday, 22 October 2016

Scenic 2 rear coils spring coils spring shocks shock absorbers replacing Renault Scenic Grand Scenic

My car, actually the back of it became noticeably lower than it was when I bought it. In fact car become lower within last few weeks. I load it properly when shopping and it is really heavy, however recently it stays lower even after discharging it from shopping stuff...
I decided to replace both coil springs and shocks as well as bumper and rubber, of course with the new plate on top too.
It is hard to get these parts not going to the dealer and n\buying brand new parts. Spring coils and shocks it is not a big problem but buffer, rubbers and plates really difficult to buy. I bought them from 1 website, they have a lot of parts so if you would like details please do not hesitate and contact  me. I will not publish their web in here.

Coming back to the subject. You will need at least 1 proper jack (hydraulic is the best option) and 2 supporters/trestles to put under the car. I have three hydraulic jacks, 2 bought from one of  the "grocery shops" and 1 professional 3.5 tonnes and low profile. In fact I carry 1 jack in my car so in case of flat tire I don't have to wind up and down using the screw thread.

I will skip the steps about removing wheels and lifting up the car. Just for your own safety make sure you secured your wheels properly and engage the car on the reversing gear. It has the lowest ratio (lower than the 1 gear so car would not move) and use some chocks under front wheels (both directions!!!)

Just to see the difference I measured the height from ground thorough the center of the wheel up to the body 67cm

Totally new stuff, I did not use the buffer (blue item)

Shock

Securing wheels.

Now, you can dismantle the automatic park brake and put it back together. I did not take a risk of extra problems/work and switched on ignition (you can do this by locking the door and then putting card into to the slot and push start button for 3-5 seconds), released parking brake and then disconnect the lever from car. Brake stayed released. Switch off ignition. This will cause you an error on the dashboard - famous amber warning Service-Parking brake

Entire back of he car has to be in the air

You may secure it by putting your wheel under the car

Open your boot, remove the floor mat, remove car jack cover

Six bolts have to removed 3 + 3, then lift the plastic cover on the back and slide it forward



On both sides you will find the bolts that hold shock absorber

Under the car remove clip and the plastic cover

Clean the nut with wire brush





You will have to lift your car pretty high and then remove the shock starting with pushing in the bottom bolt, then remove the top bolt, and pull the shock down

Coil spring will go off very easy. Please note what is the position of the coil

In my car, coil was in 2 parts. Had to be changed. The rubber was not that bad, however I had a full new set

Buffer was ok and had a rubber on top. The new one did not have. Buffer was in perfect condition so I used them again

New coil and the rubber. The top should lean slightly towards front of the car

Correct position of coils - the begging of the coil should be at 9 (RHS) and 3 (LHS) o'clock looking from the top of the car.

Put the head of shock in it position and slide in the bolt

Put the coils on the positions. You will need help



Tighten them

Use extra car jack to lift the rear axle subframe. It will lift at the both sides at the same time

Place the bootom bolt into the frame

Washer and nut

and the torque.

Aftermath height changed by 4cm

Good luck.
BTW As mentioned before I can give details to the good online shop, where you can buy all of the parts.
Wojtek

PS Cost of shocks 45eu inlc delivery, plates 25eu (Renault dealer only), buffer 6e each, coils 65eu with delivery, rubber 10eu each. Total: 167eu, time needed to do it around 3 hours (with no rush and tea break at 5pm ;)  )

Friday, 21 October 2016

boot struts replacing in Renault Scenic Grand Megane 5 minutes repair, boot strut, boot cylinder holder

As in the subject it is just a 5 min task

Long bar or something to support the boot door needed
It is very easy, no comments required

Struts came with lifetime warranty. Force F1=590N is equal to 59kgs, so 2 struts can handle up to 118kgs



Both lamps have to be removed ( 2x torx on each side)









The foot

The head of strut,; Lift up the holding spring and pull back the strut, flat head screwdriver needed,




Thx

Thursday, 20 October 2016

faulty alternator, alternator replacing, how to remove alternator, alternator belt tensioner, v belt tensioner replacing, B1 + B2 + terminal on alternator, Renault Scenic, Megane, 1.6 petrol

Hi all.

I was driving my car and noticed a slightly different vibrations coming from engine compartment.
It was a bit stronger vibration than a running fan. I noticed also that there is a heat coming from under the car when I open the door. It looked like problem with exhaust (some hole etc.)
However I felt a burning,  metallic smell, and after lifting up the bonnet i heard a bit of strange noise as well as very strong heat wave.
I was browsing the compartment and noticed some little metal pieces flying somewhere from under the pulley belt.
I stopped the engine and started browsing for problem.
I did not notice anything.
However the heat coming from above the alternator was very noticeable so I took the multi-meter with temperature sensor and measured temperatures around the belt.


 The results clearly showed me where is the problem - the main/front bearing, was much more hotter than the rest of alternator's body.

I had to replace the alternator
Remove all the wires


Remove the washable bottle neck

Disconnect the "plus" from the battery and cover it with some insulator (I used terminal plastic cover and rubber glove)


Remove the supporting bar


 

 Now, having better access disconnect the main charging wire

Now remove two bolts holding the alternator


The bottom one



The bottom bolt




Push forward alternator


The best part ;)
It is tight and you won't be able to take out alternator, unless you will remove the engine suspension bolts and push the engine back







 


 

You will need another pair of hands to do this
The alternator; both bearings apperead to be worn, shaft and brushes too and

 this is the source of flying metal pieces

It was not worth to fix this alternator. The cost of bearings, the brush module and fact it is damaged ended up with buying the brand new, not original, but new.




The new alternator. Slightly different to the old one. Two terminals B1+ and B2+...what is it all about???

I checked. As you can see both terminals are connected, so it is just another option to connect wire in easy way, either to terminal B1+ or the terminal B2+. Nothing else, no mystery (I saw many theories over the Internet, some of them really crazy)

The old one

You have to take steps in opposite direction to put it back. How ever remember about his picture. THIS PICTURE IS IMPORTANT AND WILL HELP YOU TO SMOOTHLY ... (you will find out)

Put it on the position and gently hammer the nut, which is in alternator's body

Wires, supporting bar

Engine suspension mounting bolts


I replaced the tensioner as I did not rust in it anymore (after wobbly top bearing the tensioner could be damaged). Mounting torque 40Nm


Brand new (generic) and the old one

Rubbish

New belts costs around 10 eu  so it is not too expensive to be replaced. 5 ribs; the mechanical manual for Renault suggests to leave the rib closest to the engine free (wheel has 6 and the belt 5 ribs). I looked from top and put it firstly as it should be and then I left the last rib (from engine) empty. I checked, I asked my miss to look as well and it looks much more inline at thsi position  than the manual says. It is up to you

I thought I sorted out my problem.
Not really. Engine became to behave strangely. Did not keep the rev, it actually goes up and down all the time and finally stops after 40-60 seconds.
I thought I have a new problem. But, when I remove the v belt, engine was ok, with it nope...
Alternator was charging.
I decided to go and see my mechanic who has Renault computer. Computer showed that the alternator is all the time, constantly charging at 100%. This value has not change at all. We turn on lights, fan - no difference. We tried the same on another Scenic. It was totally different. Computer showed that alternator charges depends on the current power usage. So the alternator although was new, was not compatible with Renault. Basically OBD and the alternator did not communicate to each other.
I had to return alternator and I went for refurbished one.
The new cost me around 140eu with delivery, 130eu I paid for refurbished one. The original, brand new costs about 350eu.
The only thing I am not happy with this one - does not have the top loop for the supporting bar.






Thx