I was driving my car and noticed a slightly different vibrations coming from engine compartment.
It was a bit stronger vibration than a running fan. I noticed also that there is a heat coming from under the car when I open the door. It looked like problem with exhaust (some hole etc.)
However I felt a burning, metallic smell, and after lifting up the bonnet i heard a bit of strange noise as well as very strong heat wave.
I was browsing the compartment and noticed some little metal pieces flying somewhere from under the pulley belt.
I stopped the engine and started browsing for problem.
I did not notice anything.
However the heat coming from above the alternator was very noticeable so I took the multi-meter with temperature sensor and measured temperatures around the belt.
I had to replace the alternator
Remove all the wires
Remove the washable bottle neck
Disconnect the "plus" from the battery and cover it with some insulator (I used terminal plastic cover and rubber glove)
Remove the supporting bar
Now remove two bolts holding the alternator
The bottom one
The bottom bolt
Push forward alternator
The best part ;)
It is tight and you won't be able to take out alternator, unless you will remove the engine suspension bolts and push the engine back
You will need another pair of hands to do this
The alternator; both bearings apperead to be worn, shaft and brushes too and
It was not worth to fix this alternator. The cost of bearings, the brush module and fact it is damaged ended up with buying the brand new, not original, but new.
The new alternator. Slightly different to the old one. Two terminals B1+ and B2+...what is it all about???
I checked. As you can see both terminals are connected, so it is just another option to connect wire in easy way, either to terminal B1+ or the terminal B2+. Nothing else, no mystery (I saw many theories over the Internet, some of them really crazy)
The old one
You have to take steps in opposite direction to put it back. How ever remember about his picture. THIS PICTURE IS IMPORTANT AND WILL HELP YOU TO SMOOTHLY ... (you will find out)
Put it on the position and gently hammer the nut, which is in alternator's body
Wires, supporting bar
Engine suspension mounting bolts
I replaced the tensioner as I did not rust in it anymore (after wobbly top bearing the tensioner could be damaged). Mounting torque 40Nm
Brand new (generic) and the old one
Rubbish
New belts costs around 10 eu so it is not too expensive to be replaced. 5 ribs; the mechanical manual for Renault suggests to leave the rib closest to the engine free (wheel has 6 and the belt 5 ribs). I looked from top and put it firstly as it should be and then I left the last rib (from engine) empty. I checked, I asked my miss to look as well and it looks much more inline at thsi position than the manual says. It is up to you
I thought I sorted out my problem.
Not really. Engine became to behave strangely. Did not keep the rev, it actually goes up and down all the time and finally stops after 40-60 seconds.
I thought I have a new problem. But, when I remove the v belt, engine was ok, with it nope...
Alternator was charging.
I decided to go and see my mechanic who has Renault computer. Computer showed that the alternator is all the time, constantly charging at 100%. This value has not change at all. We turn on lights, fan - no difference. We tried the same on another Scenic. It was totally different. Computer showed that alternator charges depends on the current power usage. So the alternator although was new, was not compatible with Renault. Basically OBD and the alternator did not communicate to each other.
I had to return alternator and I went for refurbished one.
The new cost me around 140eu with delivery, 130eu I paid for refurbished one. The original, brand new costs about 350eu.
The only thing I am not happy with this one - does not have the top loop for the supporting bar.
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